Selecting the correct type of formalwear for an event can end up being more stressful than necessary.
At Walters of Oxford, we thought it would be helpful to outline some things to consider, as you contemplate whether you should wear a black tie waistcoat or a cummerbund as part of your formalwear outfit.
What is a cummerbund?
The cummerbund is the staple part of a black tie outfit.
The cummerbund was imported to the UK from India during the 19th century by British soldiers in the military. The soldiers had been stationed in India, and noticed that the men there wore brightly coloured sashes that were wrapped around their tunics, and were a lot cooler than the vests that the British military were wearing at the time.
Not long after, the British military adopted this new accessory too. The name cummerbund originated from the Hindustani word ‘Karmaband’, which translates as ‘loincloth’.
Over time, as is common with many historical garments, the cummerbund evolved, and nowadays is worn typically in black, generally made using a satin material and featuring pleats that face upward (this was introduced during a period of time when men’s formal trousers did not have pockets, and so a gentleman could tuck his opera tickets into the pleats of the cummerbund).
It is worn at the waistline, at navel level, with half covering the shirt and half the trousers.
What are the benefits of a cummerbund?
- A tuxedo with a cummerbund is much cooler than a tuxedo with a waistcoat, especially if the event is taking place in a warmer location or on a balmy summer evening.
- A cummerbund can be worn to cover up any bunching up of a shirt where it is tucked into the trousers giving a smooth sleek appearance.
- A cummerbund is very flattering, giving a slimmer and more streamlined appearance to the midsection of its wearer.
- A final, oft-debated benefit, is that the upward pleats of the cummerbund catches any crumbs keeping the trousers clean.
What is a black tie waistcoat?
As with many elements of men’s clothing, the waistcoat was initially designed as a practical addition to a man’s outfit – first introduced to servants working outdoors to provide an extra layer of warmth.
As time progressed, the waistcoat grew in popularity and by the late 19th century, a derivative of the original waistcoat had been introduced into the formal wear wardrobe, eventually becoming the accompaniment to a tuxedo.
It is very different in design to the waistcoat that is often worn as part of a 3-piece suit ensemble. A black tie waistcoat is highly formal and should never be worn without the dinner jacket.
The cut of a black tie waistcoat is lower and wider than a normal waistcoat to show off more of the dinner shirt and to avoid it being seen when the jacket is buttoned up.
A black tie waistcoat can be worn with or without lapels.
It is mostly preferable to wear the waistcoat in the same colour and material as the dinner jacket, but a subtle complementary colour can be acceptable.
What are the benefits of a black tie waistcoat?
- A waistcoat provides an elegant extra layer for an evening event on a cold night.
- Men with a larger midsection may find that the waistcoat is a comfortable and more flattering option as it extends up the length of the torso creating an elegant look.
- A semi-backless waistcoat can be worn for warmer events for those who still prefer a waistcoat over a cummerbund.
- There are a variety of options, including double breasted fastening and lapel designs.
- It covers the shirt and top part of the trousers in a similar fashion to the cummerbund.
- It usually features a pocket for a gentleman’s pocket watch, should you wish to accessorise in that way.
In summary, the main practical aspects to consider when choosing a black tie waistcoat or a cummerbund are;
- The weather / temperature of the environment in which the formal event is taking place.
- Your figure – which option suits your body shape best?
- Personal choice! Which do you feel most comfortable and confident in?
For further guidance, please do not hesitate to get in touch with us, or visit us in store for expert advice.